Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Mount Hamilton (2,997 m) in New Zealand According to Land Information New Zealand, it rises to a height of 3199m, although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. A list published by the New Zealand Alpine Club ranks Malte Brun as the third highest mountain in New Zealand. Conrad Malte-Brun [needs Danish and French IPA] (12 August 1775 – 14 December 1826), born Malthe Conrad Bruun, and sometimes referred to simply as Malte-Brun, was a Dano-French geographer and journalist. To reach the Murchison Glacier either ascend from the lower Cascade Glacier up 250m of gullies onto the lower East Ridge of Aiguilles Rouges or else sidle around down the side of the snout of the Cascade Glacier. See below for route from Beetham Valley. From Malte Brun Pass head up the ridge, skirting the first pinnacles on the west side, and then up the crest of the ridge, which rises in two long steps. His second son, Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun, was also a geographer.Today he is perhaps best remembered for coining the name for the geographic region Oceania (French Océanie) around 1812. Top of the access gully: An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Malte Brun Expedition The highest peak in the Malte Brun range, and one of NZ's classic alpine rock summits. What route did you climb on Aspiring? Fyfe’s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Rising as the highest summit in the group of peaks between the Murchison and Tasman glaciers, Malte Brun is one of the classic peaks of the Southern Alps of New Zealand. Nice Photos. On reaching the true West Ridge negotiate the Cheval and then up 200m to the summit. Alan and I attempted a route known as the Full West Ridge in 2011. Malte Brun is located directly east of Mt Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak), separated by the mighty Tasman glacier. At about 1,500m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the Malte Brun Range At about 1,600m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier with, from left, the Minarets, Elie De Beaumont, The Malte Brun Range, Murchison River and the Liebig Range (Nun's Veil with a … We decided to do that one, a 2000m route from our camp. Together with Alan Silva we travelled to New Zealand in February 2012 to climb Malte Brun, New Zealand’s 6 th highest peak at 3196m. The routes on the western side of Mt Malte Brun provide good rock climbing and can be gained either via the Turnbull Glacier, which joins the upper Bonney Glacier, or up the Malte Brun Glacier. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Shispare N.E. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Face (7611 meters) difficult First Ascent in the Karakorum by Japanese climbers 25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. Malte's warm red sandstone faces provide some of the best alpine rock mountaineering in the Mount Cook area. A guided ascent of Malte Brun (3199m), New Zealand, by Keith Scott and Jamie Robertson (guide), February 2014. The descent onto the Cascade Glacier is straightforward. According to Land Information New Zealand , it rises to a height of 3,199 metres (10,495 ft),  although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. Lat: -43.54864 Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are: The Malte Brun is an alpine rock peak, and at 3199 metres it is one of the highest mountains in the Southern Alps. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Getting to the start of the climb proved quite long already: from the camp you get onto the large ridge leading to the west ridge. Ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the pass. Map H36 and I36 Grade 5 1500 metres One reasonably tough day of six or seven hours. ... Nice. Mount Tasman Expedition - 3,497 metres Alpine Guides Mount Tasman guided climb is a 6 day expedition on to New Zealand's second highest peak. Alpine Guides expedition on to Malte Brun (3,199 metres) offers a chance to climb one of the gems of the Southern Alps. The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge. The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site: Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow. Tasman Valley. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely. The peak was first ascended by the legendary Tom Fyfe in 1894. Lat: -43.55298 Steep and fun. In the Malte Brun Range there are long climbs over generaly good rock and broken glaciers, Malte Brun(3155m) being the highest peak. Climbing huts were first built in the central Southern Alps by the government for guided climbers. Unregistered users can only view full size photos that have been added this month. Ant, Michael, Brendan and Rachel climb Malte Brun (3199m) in Mt Cook National Park via the West Ridge in late Jan 2016 Altough it has the most unstable weather It's still possible to climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun. Head up from obvious start to join weakness. Chimney moves are the crux. Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent. CptTrips. The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. The first Ball Hut was built in 1891 at the site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882. Long:170.28311 The classic climb up Malte Brun is the west ridge, or its longer version, the full west ridge, visible on the left of the above picture. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Malte Brun (3,199 m) in the Southern Alps of New Zealand There is plenty of room for variations. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). This can make a quick descent route, but it is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches. The West Ridge (NZ Grade 3), with its famous "cheval" section, is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the range with rock that is extremely solid by New Zealand standards. Spring is generally the best time conditions and access wise. Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps. The duration takes into account the length, difficulty, access … And range, from Plateau Hut, Mt Cook NP Cheval, West Ridge of Malte Brun, Mt Cook. Take … Cross the Cheval and continue up 200m to the summit. Scene of Tom Fyfe’s remarkable 1894 solo climb. Panoramic mountain photography occasionalclimber.co.nz. Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. At least one of the pillars on the north side of the lower ridge has been climbed, and provides excellent climbing (crux 16). … An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. 15 - 20 pitches An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. The rock is highly variable and in parts the ridge is quite exposed. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Due to insufficient data, the value of the property cannot be estimated. The NZ climbing forum seems pretty dead. Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner. Best pitch **. Elevation: 1640m Lat: -43.55025 The head of the Tasman Glacier, though a serious area, is a good introduction to the Mount Cook region. This route usually commences from the Bonney Glacier just above the small icefall but there is wide scope for variations especially from below the icefall. In 1898, the Malte Brun Hut was built beside the Tasman Glacier. Elev: 2036m, Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. Long: 170.28069 The first mountain huts were built near the Ball Glacier in 1891 and below Mt Malte Brun in 1898. Thanks for posting them, I'm heading to NZ in Jan and Feb 06, Multe Brun is one that is on the tick-list. First ascent unknown. Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete. Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier. From the névé of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the snow and ice couloir to within l00m of the summit. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. level 2. Despite this most of the ridge is on snow and ice. Continue up rock directly to the Cheval or follow the ledge which ramps to the right, arriving on the West Ridge about 60m west of the Cheval. Alpine Guides' Expeditions are guided climbing packages for NZ's most notable peaks: including Aoraki Mount Cook, Mount Tasman, and Mount Aspiring. Malte Brun is a fantastic alpine rock peak, standing out high on the mountain range named after it, east of the Main Divide. Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then stay right to climb the gully on the left of the large buttress. From the Bonney Glacier climb compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux before a snowcovered ledge Access the ledge toward either the left or the right. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Elev: 1828m This route, or rather series of routes, starts from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier and joins the West Ridge proper well before the “Cheval”, a famous and spectacular narrow section of ridge. Alpine Guides offers a 3-day guided mountaineering package that can get you to the summit. Full size version is only available to registered users Please Register as a New User or Login as Existing User to gain full access to all the photos on this site. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. 2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. The Footstool 2,764 m The glaciated peak of the Footstool towers impressively above Mount Cook Village. Dan Baker - Dec 6, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment. Registration is quick and completely free. First accent was done with bivy gear and the team descended down the Bonney Rib. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. The property last sold for $690,000 on 9 September 2014. An enjoyable climb for a sunny day. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. Long: 170.28782 From the Beetham Valley the best route is probably to cut across the toe of West Ridge and ascend above the old Malte Brun Hut site, regaining the ridge at a col at 2300m. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals. The 6-day package gives time to fly in, high on the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site. These packages are for a set number of days. Descend from Mt Hamilton to a narrow rubbly notch and climb up a steep slab for 150m, then on up the ridge, which rises in a series of short steps of good rock. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. 11 Malte Brun Place, Papatoetoe, Auckland, 2025 is a Residential property built in 1965 with 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and 3 parking spaces. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. Early visitors camped near White Horse Hill (where the first Hermitage hotel opened in 1885) or at Governors Bush (where the second Hermitage opened in 1914, and the third in 1958). This route is used regularly for descents but be sure to remember where to turn off the West Ridge in order to reach the head of the Malte Brun Glacier. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Face (7611 m) Karakorum F/A + Malte Brun (NZ) S Face Ski + Summits in Nepal & Legends + Uluru Climbs Banned After 2019 Shispare N.E. From the lower Bonney Glacier ascend the ribs and slabs of excellent rock between the North East and North Ridges. The climbing on these routes is exposed, but not too difficult. Not recommended as a descent. Bivvy site (there are many others): A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. Follow the ridge on generally good rock. This area was explored by Julius Haast in 1862. Other routes ascend to the right of the couloir while some variations keep closer to the North Ridge. Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910. The last 1/3 was quite chossy. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. Climbers on the famous 'cheval' traverse of the West Ridge of Malte Brun The rock on the ridge is good and the climbing pleasantly interesting but nowhere difficult. Conquering Cook After crossing the broad expanse of the pass, descend either snow or, in late summer, rock and scree to the Beetham Valley. The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. Mt Tasman is … Although the climbing is not very difficult, it is still quite sustained. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. The summit offers stunning views of the Aoraki Mount Cook massif and the lakes of the Mackenzie Region. Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps.
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